crickyt :: auto / enthusiasm

stockshocker: racecraft cf front+rear strutbars, blitz SUSpower intake, RMK202, pivot raizin VS+pivot grounding cables, denso iridium IK20, apexi rsm, apexi auto timer, eibach pro-kit springs, falken azenis st115 on nitrogen

Tuesday, November 06, 2007

Economics for simple people

You'd notice them if you just happened to walk down the city on an average working day. Like a cheap Xeroxed copy that walked out of GQ, in a shirt that looks more expensive than it really
is, in matching pants and a bold power tie, they strut down looking like the air around them breathes fresh when they are choking down on the same smog that we are killing ourselves
with.

Well, to each his own, and to be a participant in this rat race one becomes a rat. I don't fancy the whole pretentiousness of it all, hell, I don't even fancy the word fancy, but what're you gonna do, right? I'm not saying its wrong, either, or bad, or incorrect. There's no incorrect choice in life because these are the choices you make, and you live with it.

You probably sense some anti-conformity messages brewing within but you are probably wrong, this is not about people and what they do with their lives, its about what people do with their lives and why they go in that direction. Its what I call economics for simple people.
If you're like me, well, at least 47% of me, you probably don't know or couldn't care less about economics, which, I would in turn stand up and applaud your carefree mentality to worldly
issues. But for the rest of us economics matters, and I'm not saying you should enroll in Economics 101, or get one of those bright yellow for Dummies books (are they still in fashion?),
since you're going to fall asleep reading it anyway.

I don't consider myself a very good sample for simple people either. So if you are reading this far you know one of three things, I'm not a simple person, I don't know anything about economics, and yet I'm writing an article on economics. Back to our cheap Mr.Xerox. Just look around, there's Xerox1 to 20 all around you, some are wearing a 10k Tag Carrera because they think it gives them more character, while the others are spending a quarter of their salaries at Starbucks trying to look like very important emails have to be sent sipping on their
lattes.

Is this a sign of a good economy? Neither they, nor I provide a very good sample size. Try the average guy with a family to support, and multiple loan repayments. These are the master
jugglers trying to raise your kids right, keep everyone happy and deal with the ever changing economy. Look at them, and you have a good idea if we're doing well, or we're merely scraping
by.

Essentials are getting pricier by the day, and if you're the type that deals with stuff that's affected by the exchange rate you'd know what I'm talking about. Sure the Dollar is down to
its lowest point in years but our share market isn't the best performing amongst other asian countries, which has seen a sharp rise because their currency became stronger due to the weaker Dollar. We're supposed to be able to do better than this, but we aren't, things continue to get more expensive, but yet our basic salaries remain at a flatline. This is the same sentiment shared by a lot of people.

I suppose for most of us we are thankful that we aren't really suffering from this. We are scraping by, yes, but we aren't suffering from scurvy. But if you're doing business, being
thankful has its limits, and when you are nearing that limit, being thankful just doesn't quite cut it. You become less competitive, your exports drop because your prices are higher. You have probably heard that its cheaper to set up a factory in Vietnam with less red tape than it is to set up one here and hire local workers. People here want a higher pay for less work, and we are right to ask for what we deserve. But at the cost of your competitive edge, are you willing to sacrifice your ten thousand dollar lifestyle for long term business? The real question is why do we even have to choose?

There is a breakdown in the system, consumers won't know it yet. Consumers like Mr.Xerox because their multinational workplace buffers them from the real economics that affect simple people, and the fact that simple people drive the real economics that directly affects them in return.

Nobody wants to really work long and hard to get what they want anymore simply because there is no reward factor attached to it. But imagine one day if nobody wants you to work long and hard anymore, simply because someone somewhere else can do what you don't want to do at one third the cost, then you will understand the economics of simple people.

Thursday, November 30, 2006

fixed up good

Dropped by CKL again out of dissatisfaction from the steering to veer to the right. I didn't pay RM78 for that, anyway the dude-who-didn't-say-much tightened a couple of nuts, took it for another spin and handed it back to me again. Perfect!

Went back to the office and calculated the tyre correction ratio again so that my RSM will display the actual speedometer reading. The new tyres required a 2% adjustment. I have it down to a science now. The original size is 185/55/15. The new ones are 195/55/15. That's an 11mm difference from the stock tyres.

For those of you who don't know/realize, stock tyres + stock rims = accurate speedometer. Once you upsize your rims, usually you won't match the original tyre measurements, and that means that your speedometer reading will be way out as well, but of course not many people bother about this fact. How do you calculate the best tyre+rim match? My advice? Do it yourself. Then head over to the tyre shop and see if they have that size in stock after you've done your research online to see if that size even exists. Don't listen to their gung-ho 'It will fit, one!' mentality because most shops will do that to move their stock.

An example, my stock tyre is 185/55/15. That means the tyre width is 185mm, the sidewall height is 55% of 185mm which is 101.75mm, which you multiply by 2, then convert the rim size to metric so 15" would be 381mm. Add it all up and you will get 584.5mm, which is what you want to keep as close as possible to maintain a proper reading.

What I did was I got wider tyres (not necessarily always a good thing, but in my case it is). So with the same calculation 195/55/15 would mean that the diameter increased to 595.5mm, or an 11mm increase, which is roughly 1.9%. I use 2% for simplification. Anyway the RSM doesn't support decimals so this is already good enough.

A proper rim+tyre combination, however, would be 205/50/15 which would give the overall diameter of 586mm, only +1.5mm increase, which is negligible. But to enable that kind of tyre size I would have to change my rims to something wider, probably a 7 or 7.5" width. A waste of money, I think.

Now that I'm done, I can rest easy. I'll probably take it out for a polish later to get some stubborn oil stains out. Then I can stop modding for a while until more funds come in.

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fixed up good

Dropped by CKL again out of dissatisfaction from the steering to veer to the right. I didn't pay RM78 for that, anyway the dude-who-didn't-say-much tightened a couple of nuts, took it for another spin and handed it back to me again. Perfect!

Went back to the office and calculated the tyre correction ratio again so that my RSM will display the actual speedometer reading. The new tyres required a 2% adjustment. I have it down to a science now. The original size is 185/55/15. The new ones are 195/55/15. That's an 11mm difference from the stock tyres.

For those of you who don't know/realize, stock tyres + stock rims = accurate speedometer. Once you upsize your rims, usually you won't match the original tyre measurements, and that means that your speedometer reading will be way out as well, but of course not many people bother about this fact. How do you calculate the best tyre+rim match? My advice? Do it yourself. Then head over to the tyre shop and see if they have that size in stock after you've done your research online to see if that size even exists. Don't listen to their gung-ho 'It will fit, one!' mentality because most shops will do that to move their stock.

An example, my stock tyre is 185/55/15. That means the tyre width is 185mm, the sidewall height is 55% of 185mm which is 101.75mm, which you multiply by 2, then convert the rim size to metric so 15" would be 381mm. Add it all up and you will get 584.5mm, which is what you want to keep as close as possible to maintain a proper reading.

What I did was I got wider tyres (not necessarily always a good thing, but in my case it is). So with the same calculation 195/55/15 would mean that the diameter increased to 595.5mm, or an 11mm increase, which is roughly 1.9%. I use 2% for simplification. Anyway the RSM doesn't support decimals so this is already good enough.

A proper rim+tyre combination, however, would be 205/50/15 which would give the overall diameter of 586mm, only +1.5mm increase, which is negligible. But to enable that kind of tyre size I would have to change my rims to something wider, probably a 7 or 7.5" width. A waste of money, I think.

Now that I'm done, I can rest easy. I'll probably take it out for a polish later to get some stubborn oil stains out. Then I can stop modding for a while until more funds come in.

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Wednesday, November 29, 2006

save fuel, save the environment

After going back to the same shop to fix my balancing it finally occured to me, which was confirmed a little while later, that their balancing machine was...how'd you say, out of balance. It didn't help that they only had one balancing machine in the whole tyre shop. So I knew where to go next.

I dropped into CKL Ampang, these are a team of very efficient and professional people. And their balancing and alignment machines looked light years ahead of the shop near my house (identity masked in case their business drops from bad publicity). Its funny but they don't really talk much there, they just do it. And there's a bonus too, their floors aren't covered in grease!

I decided to go for the nitrogen gas inflation. I've heard much about it. Nitrogen is used in FI, aviation, and such because the molecules are larger than oxygen, so it maintains the tyre pressure better, it saves fuel as well, among other things. Check out www.getnitrogen.org for the lowdown on changing the air you ride on. There's even a nifty online calculator to see how much you can save just by doing this relatively simple procedure.

The balancing is now done. But the car still veers slightly to the right when the steering is straight. I think further tweaking is needed.

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bad vibrations

First test drive down the highway in light drizzle produced somewhat mixed results. The road handling was excellent from the grippy and surprisingly quiet ST115s, and the lowering helped with the corners. But just can't get over that vibrating feeling.

I think they didn't do the balancing properly. I *know* they didn't do it properly coz at the end everyone just wanted it to be done and go home.

My rims are also dirty from oil stains. Why can't they keep a clean workshop, I wonder? I probably have to go polish it later in the evening. I suppose after sending it to the workshop its going to get dirtier even.

This morning after washing my car I realized that the rear driver's side is lower than the rear passenger side. I hope its not poorly fitted springs. I'll check with them again. It has to be perfect! And somehow today just didn't quite turn out to be. Immediately after wipe drying my car it started to drizzle. Oh well, at least the engine bay is clean.

Good things come closer

I thought I'd have to head down to Sunway again to get my Eibach Prokit but decided to ask the shop near my house instead. They said they could get them. I suppose for these sort of things they probably have some connections to get it to them whenever they needed stock. So I immediately confirmed, no downpayment either. That's the good thing about building relationships. And none of that extra surcharge for credit card payments either. Perfect.

Then I decided on new tyres. It was either stick with the NCT5s or change the rims and get new tyres with it. I decided to stick with my original rims. They're Enkei anyway, and they're pretty light. So I opted for the best tyres they had: Falken Azenis ST115. These are really mean looking tyres with superior aquaplaning from the 2 large grooves that run off center. They were pricy too, but after I got my discounted rate, was well within my budget. So finding a tyre that fits was just perfect.

I only took a short drive home, but I figured it was great. The Eibach's didn't really affect the ride quality at all, its still pretty comfortable. One thing that was really noticeable was the lowering. That really suited the whole look of the car as it gave it a sportier, more aggresive stance. At the same time from the outside it still looks stock. I guess that's done then. The next phase should be in a while more, in the meantime, I shall bask in the splendidness of how refined my ride is now.

Tuesday, November 28, 2006

Living in phases

I need springs. Specifically, Eibach pro-kits for lowering and for more precise handling. Once that is done it will signal the near completion of Phase 2 of my modification phase.

I have it all in my head already, calculating like a supercomputer drawing CAD models of what and how best to do separate my mods in logical phases.

Phase 1 : Complete
Handling I & Efficiency I
- RaceCraft carbon fibre strut bars front and rear
- Hella 110db Horn
- Pivot Raizin VS-E Voltage Stabilizer and Grounding cables
- Denso Iridium IK20 Spark plugs

Phase 2 : Complete
Power I, Engine Care, Handling II & Ergonomics
- Blitz SUS Power air intake
- Apex'i Auto Timer
- Apex'i Rev/Speed Meter
- Eibach Pro-Kit progressive lowering springs
- Falken Azenis ST115

Phase 3
Efficiency II, Dress Up I & ICE
- Pivot Raizin VS-S Ignition Volt Stabilizer
- Pivot SparkEarth Ignition Earth Stabilizer
- Gunmetal, chrome rims
- Painted brake calipers: Black
- 4300k/6000k HID Xenon lights
- Amp, speakers & MP3 Head unit

Phase 4
Handling III
- Project mu Bestop Brake pads
- Project mu SCR Pure Plus 6 Slotted rotors
- UltraRacing 16mm rear sway bar
- Koni adjustable shocks

Phase 5
Power II & Dress Up II
- Upgraded fuel pump
- RaceCraft muffler
- Camcon piggyback ECU
- RaceCraft carbon fibre hood
- Hood dampers
- Custom bodykit
- Carbon fibre GT Wing

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Sunday, November 26, 2006

Attracted to the light

Woke up bright and early Saturday morning to wash my car, which is becoming quite a regular thing these days. Then headed straight to Sunway to install my Apexi RSM and Auto Timer. The Timer was a last minute thing, since I don't think I want to be hanging around for someone to fit it in at a later date, I thought it'd be good to just do it once and for all.

After that I rushed back with some zip ties and mounting tape and decided where to put my 2 new toys.

Imagine, I even spirit-checked the RSM so that its perfectly level to the ground. That's first class installation, folks!

I must say, I'm liking it more now. The meter is actually in the correct position. I don't have to look at the centre for speed anymore, and it just looks a hell lot better with the white LED screen.

Now, I'm wondering...should I do my springs? For what is power without control?

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Wednesday, November 22, 2006

Third mod

Its not going to stop. Today I decided to check out the local accessory shop near my house. I don't have much confidence in their products although they are a little more upclass compared to the other joints around here. They do stock up on HIDs from Taiwan and such, which I realize, every other HID supplier stocks up on Taiwan or China products.

I wanted only 2 things, a battery change, and spark plugs, if they had what I had in mind.

The good news was that they have both. The better news was that they gave me a discount for being a 'regular customer', but that was since my earlier Satria days. The Vios, however, requires somewhat more specialization so I'm taking it to the Kaitenaz guys or to Sunway.

So I picked up a Yokohama Maintenance free battery, NS60, and Denso Iridium IK20 spark plugs. They didn't cost much, and of course I can't feel much difference. The engine is a little more fluid now, smooth. I decided its time to change fuels.

So I dropped by Shell and loaded it up with V-Power. I think that should extract maximum performance, and since my Mobil Smiles card is such a bogus ripoff. I can only buy sweets and some other stuff with my points. Imagine, after spending RM3000 on fuel, I get RM30 to buy stuff. I think that kind of ratio is ridiculous. So I'll be going back to Shell.

I can't wait to drive again.

Tuesday, November 21, 2006

Second mod

Its gotten so bad I started dreaming about what to put in my Vios to get me to sleep. Okay, so now I decided I need power. A lot more power. It isn't impossible, you just needed the right components.

So I went with the Blitz SUS Power intake, the RMK202, and for more efficient grounding, the Pivot Raizin Spark Volt Stabilizer with grounding cables.

Installation took a really painstaking 3 hours, and immediately after I turned the ignition the Blitz was sucking air erratically coz the ECU had trouble reading the increased air flow.

But after a couple of high revs it calmed down a little, my first full throttle into the highway was fantastic. I have no time nor patience to install those items separately so it immediately gave me a burst of torque. And torque is power. The roar of the engine flung me forward and I had that evil smile of satisfaction. This was good, and my first victim was an unsuspecting Myvi who was cutting in and out of traffic on the left side, I easily outran him, of course, but the roads were wet so with my stock shocks and my 50% or so left on the tyre I decided to slow down.

This is good, I like how the Vios is really developing, and of course, more to come.